Man Cave Forums - Discussing The Perfect Man Cave banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Badministrator
Joined
·
42,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I used this for a poker table, but I guess it could be easily applied to other tables, bars, etc. where you were looking for a seamless view.

It was recommended that I post it here.

table summary:
the table measures 58" wide outside rail to outside rail. the table will have a hardwood top that will incorporate an apron to cover the padded rail on the side.

points of interest:
there were a few things that were a tight squeeze. such as the suited cloth. there was exactly zero edge to trim off each side once it was down due to the width.

new seamless vinyl trick!
also the vinyl. as we all know, vinyl comes in 54" widths. this is a 58" rail, which wraps around the edges, so i've found a way to get creative and take 54" wide vinyl and get it to wrap a rail where you would typically buy something extra wide to get around the rail. if i were to buy vinyl for this, i would have bought something in the 70" width. the pictures are pretty self explanatory, but i'll walk through each of them with a little detail as needed.

materials:
cup holder by marine fisheries

suited cloth from yat. many thanks for the best poker cloth around!

green foam and vinyl from jo-anns. mad props to trump for the 40% off coupon!

wood / maple pedestal base from adam's wood products. (http://www.adamswoodproducts.com/)

poly from minwax

3/4" maple ply for the table base, and a scrap piece for the mounting. (see pictures) and 3/4 ply for the rail. (double high rail / see pictures)

table padding from my local carpet supply house. carpet padding is what i've been suing on most tables lately, and i get rave reviews from customers who play on it. this is the smooth stuff, not the little chunks glued together. it runs about $30 / table and comes 6' wide.

table base with the cup holders and table padding. (customer requested cup holders in the table, so that's where they are. not my personal preference, but, if you are the customer, and you are paying for it, you get them where you want.



table base with suited cloth and cup holders cut out and stapled down.


the modified (never waste a scrap rolling stool)


rail with foam. the foam is cut at 7" wide and glues down with 3m 77 and there is a 1" overhang on the inside edge. rail wood is ~3-3/4" wide


another view of the rail from the other side. notice the rail has spacing blocks in between the top rail and the inside / under ring. gives it the full wrap around effect from the side view and hides any view of the edge of the table base / staples / etc.


here is where we run into the issue on the vinyl. as you can see, the rail is clearly wider than the vinyl. so after about a day of thinking and tinkering around in my head with a few different ideas, this is what i came up with to have this table match the other 2 that i have built this customer. i was in search for wider vinyl, however it wouldn't be a 100% dead nuts match with the vinyl. the customer also didn't want a seam of two pieces being sewn together.

so, this is what i cam up with.
rather than stapling the outside first and cutting the inside portion, then finishing the stapling, i figured i would slightly reverse that process.


the length on one side was ok, as i bought 6' of vinyl. so i started with the ends that were long enough.


with the material centered and stapled on the ends where i had the length covered, i then made some cuts as you normally do. with the edges not stapled yet, i was free to now pull the material and get those extra few inches i needed to wrap 54" wide material around a 58" rail that is 3" tall with the foam. i essentially needed to wrap about 63 to 64" wide.


same thing other side, and i have the rail outside edge done.


closer view of the outside edge where i needed the extra width.


tacked all sides in place.


outside complete with staples.


stretch and staple as you normally would with in the inside and the rail is complete.


closer view of the complete rail.


(unfinished) maple pedestal base from adams wood products.


now with poly




this piece is a 3/4" ply piece that will act as a connector / sub base from the pedestal mounting braces to the table base. there are t-nuts installed on one side of this, which the pedestal base will bolt down to. this will then be screwed to the bottom of the table when it is ready for set up and moved to the customers home.


base mounted to the sub-base


attaching the pedestal base to the braces.


base complete. now it just needs the table top and rail.


with table top and rail.


close up view of the rail / suited cloth / cup holder


a view from under the bleachers


side view.


another complete view.


proudly built by yours truly.


my shop helper has a question: "you got the aces?"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Cheeky (but clever) bastard Quads! That's a great step-by-step, particularly the vinyl trick. Thanks for sharing! :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
rail with foam. the foam is cut at 7" wide and glues down with 3m 77 and there is a 1" overhang on the inside edge. rail wood is ~3-3/4" wide
I see you use multiple pieces of green foam (from Joanne's I assume) instead of one large piece of foam such as one would buy from YAT.

I seem to recall some have described issues where the seam where the pieces of foam come together can be seen through the vinyl. I believe they have resorted to putting dryer sheets or cotton batting between the foam and vinyl to combat this.

Your thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,846 Posts
cotton interfacing cloth or dryer sheets(unscented) work just fine to hide the seam.
 

·
Badministrator
Joined
·
42,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Never used them myself. Others do, works well for them. I never did, works well for me. Tee for Tot I guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,037 Posts
Does the seamless vinyl trick also work for the 1" thick rail foam that YAT sells?

I have a 54" round I am working on and I *think* the foam is 54" wide. So I need to get a couple more inches out of it.
 

·
Badministrator
Joined
·
42,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My guess would be that you could easily do the same with foam. Just slice it down the middle as I did with the vinyl and pull it to fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,037 Posts
That's what I'm thinking, I'm going to give it a shot. I just need to finish up the wood cuts and use the router to round over the edges and I should be ready to go soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Quads; I'm close to starting a build on a pedestal of the same size (trash heap rescue) so a quick question. How would you characterize the stability of the 58" top on that base?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,128 Posts
I use Lynn for all my vinyl. His product automagically "tricks" itself to the proper width of your table without seams... But that's because its made of spaceage materials.
 

·
Badministrator
Joined
·
42,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quads; I'm close to starting a build on a pedestal of the same size (trash heap rescue) so a quick question. How would you characterize the stability of the 58" top on that base?
Decent, but the way I did it with the two sticks was wrong. I'd use a larger / round sub-base from the table to the ped instead.

Table (60")
sub-base (24ish")
ped

This gives you more material to attach the ped base to so it doesn't move or wobble. t-nuts from the ped to the sub base, then again from the sub to the table.

Make sense?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
That's what I'm thinking, I'm going to give it a shot. I just need to finish up the wood cuts and use the router to round over the edges and I should be ready to go soon.
Did you get a chance to try this yet? I pieced together my 58" round table foam and i hate it, going to recover it soon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,037 Posts
Did you get a chance to try this yet? I pieced together my 58" round table foam and i hate it, going to recover it soon
Not yet - I have 95% of my router cuts done if you include all the cupholder holes, cupholder rings, spacer... but I still have the three inside arc cuts to make and then use a round-over on the edges before I can foam the rail.

Possibly this weekend. I will take pics and report back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Not yet - I have 95% of my router cuts done if you include all the cupholder holes, cupholder rings, spacer... but I still have the three inside arc cuts to make and then use a round-over on the edges before I can foam the rail.

Possibly this weekend. I will take pics and report back.
Got ya, I went ahead and ordered some custom cut 61" wide foam from foambymail.com to cover my 58" round.
 

·
Badministrator
Joined
·
42,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've bought from foambymail a number of years ago, and they did me right.
Good product, fast shipping, fair prices.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,784 Posts
I made a 54" round table and I used the 1" foam from YAT and it worked just fine. You have to do what quads said and cut around and stretch it. It is hard but it worked for me.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top