quick and dirty method of making food/drink stands - The Perfect Man Cave
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:32 AM
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Default quick and dirty method of making food/drink stands

these don't have rollers but one could attach some if needed. these are made with oak plywood and a router and tablesaw.
first layout the pedestal pieces/top/circular bases on the plywood.
the four pedestal pieces are 4"x18". the circular bases are 12" and 16" rounds and the top is set up as 14" square with two a two inch taper taken off two sides to make it take the final size(see below for pix). after the circles are routered out of the ply cut the remainder to convenient size to work the remaining cuts on the tablesaw. take the pedestal sections and set the tablesaw to 45 degrees or use a 45 degree bit at the router table and cut the two long sides on each section. if you don't h ave a tablesaw or your rounter bit isn't long enough to cut a 45 degree angle on the 3/4" plywood, you can either switch the pedestal to be made of 1/2" plywood or do what i did and run it through the planer to make it 1/2" thick and then proceed. dry fit it to make sure they line up. then glue one long edge and hold another piece to make a ninety degree angle and nail join the two pieces. repeat process until both pedestals are completed. then measure the inside of both the top and bottom of the pedestals and cut plywood blocks to fit into each end. they should be snug, but not so tight you can't get them out. then check the sides of the pedestals and fill in any cracks/bad joints with filler and final sand both peds. take the circle bases and lightly sand the plywood edge and then tack off the dust and then edge band both pieces. trim and sand the edge banding and final sand the tops of both circles. then take the top and cut down to the 10x14 dimensions listed above with two edges having a taper(or make one to fit your needs/likes). then cut your cupholder holes so that they are a snug fit. i used a jig made to the exact size of the cup and then used a big flush trim router bit to cut out the holes. if you are going to use an inlay of a chip or some other item, this it the time to do that. i also used a jig to accomplish this cut. centering is a personal thing so line it up where you like it's look the best. i lined mine up so that i could nail the glued pedestal block right under the inlay so you couldn't see the nails as they would be underneath. make sure your depth is such that the inlay is flush with the top of the stand. then repeat the edge banding steps like on the circle base pieces and then final sand the top. then i stained all components and let them dry.i then turned over the two circles after having placed glue on the 12" circle's bottom and screwed the 16" to the 12" from the bottom side. (nice trick to this is since you already have a hole from where you put the compass to make the router cuts, just run a screw though one piece, glue and then "turn" the other piece down onto the screw until tight. they will then line up perfectly and your glue will be in the right places and you can then put in the other screws from the bottom) then put the pedestal block in the center of the 12" circle(after joined to the 16") and glued and nailed it down. then put a bit of glue on the sides of both pedestal mounting blocks, slid the pedestal on top of the base circles and nailed it with one on each side of the pedestal into the block. i then repeated the process with the top but i angled the pedestal to be 45 degrees in reference to the top for aesthetic appeal. since the pieces are already stained ...it is now time to varnish. be careful to not get any significant amount of varnish into the inlay portion of the top or you will not be able to fit the inlayed chip/icon into the spot to glue it in place. i used two part epoxy for this glue. after 4-5 coats of rubbed on varnish you can expect o have a stand like the last pix show. good luck!











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