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#21
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![]() After 3 months of zero work on this table, I got a few hours in yesterday during my week off in-between jobs. I got all the inner router cuts on the racetrack sheet finished (bottom side is up):
![]() Here's the racetrack sheet with the good side up - I really like the grain pattern on this sheet, even though it's getting a dark black stain, I'm hoping I can get all the swirly grain patterns to show: ![]() ![]() The racetrack will be about 3.25" on this table - just wide enough to fit two stacks of chips. I routed a 1/8" channel for the lit rail cover & diffuser just inside the edge of where the rail will be, a quick test fit seemed to have it fit nice and snug. ![]() ![]() ![]() Instead of using cut strips of hardboard for the level racetrack/playing surface transition - I found this plastic molding at home cheapo that's the perfect size for fitting the gap from a 1/4" diameter router bit - 1/4" thick by 3/4" tall. Using this allowed me to take the cutout piece from the 3/4" birch piece as a direct template to cut out the 1/2" sheet for the playing surface. I traced the cutout shape on the 1/2" sheet and did a rough jigsaw cut, then used a flush cut router bit to clean up the cut and make an exact match. The fit-up looked good, I may to just sand it a bit to allow for the cloth thickness. ![]() ![]() If this works out as good as I'm hoping it will, it'll be a nice time saver in doing these racetrack tables. Cutting those hard board strips, getting them to curve without snapping, and driving staples through them is a huge pain in the ass I could definitely do without. I also cut out the cup holder holes in the rail: ![]() Next up is getting the inlays cut and installed in the racetrack, then I can start the staining & finishing. Last edited by Irish; 06-19-2012 at 08:09 PM.. |
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#22
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![]() Love this thread. What is the router bit you are using in your 03/09 post at 10am? Is it 2"?
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#23
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() That's a 1/4" diameter spiral up cut bit, I think this one is 2.5" long. I get my bits from here (#RU2100 or #RU2075): Whiteside Router Bits from Woodworkersworld.net--Solid Carbide Spiral, Compression Router Bit I fried 3 bits (two 1/4" spirals and one 1/4" straight) doing those cuts. I've come to the conclusion that my Milwaukee router is not 100% in tune, and the slight vibrations are fracturing the relatively brittle solid carbide bits. I switched back to my old trusty Porter Cable 693 and have had no problems since. I also switched back to using the straight 1/4" bit instead of the spiral up cut, they're less expensive and I haven't seen a big difference in the cut. |
#24
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![]() Cool - thanks!
When using a straight carbide, do you do single or double flute? Last edited by HogDogity; 06-24-2012 at 12:31 PM.. |
#25
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![]() A flute without holes is not a flute. But a donut without holes is a danish.
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#26
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![]() That's exactly why I gave up trumpet in fifth grade. A total lack of pastry adaptation.
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#27
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![]() Double
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#28
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![]() Irish can you tell me anything else about that plastic molding. What department did you find it in at HD and/or what was it's intended purpose. I'm looking for it as I type this.
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#29
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![]() Found it in the moulding/millwork department, I believe it's called Veranda or something like that. IIRC it was like $6 for a 8 or 10 foot long piece. It's exactly 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. You'll know you've got the right stuff as soon as you go to pick it up, it'll go all wet noodle and be impossible to carry.
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#30
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![]() Thank you!
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