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  #21  
Old 10-30-2008, 03:06 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

Just got an email from the missus. We're talking about what to put in the space next to the wet bar at the top right. The bottom right will have the entertainment area (TV, sofa/loveseat, coffee table) while the bottom middle holds the two poker tables...



She came up with this marvelous idea to have a pedistal table and bar stools, giving folks there a place to hang out and getting them enough height to see the TV overtop of any heads on the sofa.



And, eerily enough, she agreed with my choice of backless stools. For an old married couple, agreeing on furnishings is full of win.



I can just imagine this thing with cardboard coasters, a bowl of pretzles, and a plate of hot wings...
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  #22  
Old 10-30-2008, 03:38 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

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Originally Posted by Trann View Post
...I can just imagine this thing with cardboard coasters, a bowl of pretzles, and a plate of hot wings...
If I leave now, I could be there in 5 1/2 hours. Long enough for you to shuffle the cards, chill the beer, and heat the wings.

operators are standing by....
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  #23  
Old 10-30-2008, 05:42 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

Are 2X4's called 2X4's in Canada?


george
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  #24  
Old 10-30-2008, 06:25 PM
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Are 2X4's called 2X4's in Canada?
george
Yep
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2009, 03:31 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

Minor update to my PMC blog: I got in about two full days of work during the break and the bathroom got a lot of finish work.

A section of ceiling using the CeilingLink product and a run of 2x2s to accomodate the dropped plumbing lines...


The same section all closed up...


The exposed drain stack and finished ceiling...


The same stack primed and painted...


Barkerboard to cover the stack collection area and trim applied behind the ceiling...


And the other side of the bathroom which was far less interesting (read: difficult) to work on...


The shower goes in next.

...

Highly recommend using CeilingLink as a suspended ceiling if you need to maximize your space. It attaches to the floor joists above and only drops 1" overall.
ref. http://ceilinglink.com/

Installation is first attaching the Ts to the ceiling joists then snapping an 8' track (upside-down T) into place on one side, another 8' track on the other, then sliding in a tile and a cross-brace and another tile. Repeat.

With objects in the way (duct vents, lighting), there's a bit of pause involved: zip things together up to the point of obstruction, cut your cross Ts and ceiling tile to fit and when happy, hold tile in place and zip together. Continue with obstruction-free tile installation, as above. Note: one side may already be done so you're only "unzipped" on the side you're adding to.

To access stuff, you just have to find a seam and unzip the track. Get help to hold tiles or pull track because it will fall on your head when you're not paying attention.

Here you can see I've finished the center run which had the most light interruptions and the first right-side run (much easier) and am starting the joist-attached Ts further right still.









Don't get ahead of yourself: doing all the joist-attachment first may introduce errors you won't find until you place tiles. One row at a time.

Tools I used include tape measure, L-square, pencil, compass (for circle scribing), knife (for straight scribing), and hacksaw blade (great for cutting circles). Math is your friend.



Not shown is the most important: an anvil cutter for the Ceiling Link product itself. I tried an anvil pruner but it didn't have the leverage to finish cuts right. Find something that countersinks. Mine is a Loewe and the cutting "deck" had a slot so the blade could really do it's work.


Ref. Loewe Scheren | Anvil Cutters, with standard replaceable trapezoidal blade

...

The ceiling in the basement is fully independent of the floating walls so it uses their C-channel along the perimeter and a piece of trim fitted behind to give it some finish. You can see the trim applied in the bath pics above and near the end of this thread..

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Last edited by Trann; 04-18-2011 at 02:03 PM.. Reason: Missing pictures.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2009, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

nice work...but how did it end up in this part of the forum??? LOL
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  #27  
Old 01-05-2009, 04:50 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

Primed and painted came out pretty good!

I've got an HVAC run right down the middle of the part of the basement I am finishing... Rather than framing it in, I may paint it flat white. Any advice on materials?



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  #28  
Old 01-05-2009, 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

I have that exact table and stool set. It's pretty sweet. Nice choice!
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2009, 09:13 PM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

For a second there Trann, I thought you notched out the floor joists to run the copper pipe Lookin' good.
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  #30  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:49 AM
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Default Re: Trann's Man Cave

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedge Rock View Post
Primed and painted came out pretty good!
Yeah, we debated boxing it all in but the reduced headroom would have been annoying.

Quote:
I've got an HVAC run right down the middle of the part of the basement I am finishing... Rather than framing it in, I may paint it flat white. Any advice on materials?
Um, paint?

You're working with tin so I'd be thinking of Tremclad primer and colours. Never had problems with them and metal together. Then again, never used anything else either.

One thing I'd suggest is a light sanding to rough up the surface and get the paint to adhere better. This is more like real finish work and needs to look good rather than spray bombed quick n' dirty garage work.
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