help on wooden pedestals

[a5mcdonald]

I am building some poker tables with wooden pedestal legs. The legs at adam's - do they come with the feet or do you have to buy the feet seperate?

Also, is the height of them appropriate for a table? Do I have to add some wood where the legs are attached to make them a little bit taller?

Also how sturdy are they and what is the best way to assemble them to the table?

Thanks.

[MsprinM]

Welcome aboard. Someone with more knowledge than me will be along shortly and answer your questions. If possible add a link to the legs that you purchased so the guys will have a better idea of what to tell you.

[a5mcdonald]

Well that's the thing I have not purchased the legs yet.

I am looking at getting the Economy Colonial 10' wooden single pedestals from Adam's

I am just wondering if you have to buy the feet separate or do they come with them? I am also wondering if you need to add any height to them if they are only 26 and 1/2 inches tall and am just wondering what is the best way to attach them to the table.

Am also wondering how sturdy the 8x4 oval table would be with two of these pedestals on them. I plan on building the table with one 3/4 inch piece of plywood with the left over piece from the railing attached to the bottom for extra support. I plan on attaching the wooden pedestal legs on the left over piece that is going to be underneath the table.

Should I put an entirely new piece of wood as well as the left over piece from the cutout of the railing? This table needs to be completely sturdy and not wobble or shake at all.

Thanks in advance!

[morningwood]

I am building some poker tables with wooden pedestal legs. The legs at adam's - do they come with the feet or do you have to buy the feet seperate? You have to buy the feet separately, but you can chose which type you prefer.

Also, is the height of them appropriate for a table? Do I have to add some wood where the legs are attached to make them a little bit taller? Check some of the other tables, you'll see some sort of sub base or lifter to raise the leg room. Depending on your needs, very minimum of 26 1/2" to no more than 30" clearance will work.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/tharshebe/10diaped.jpg
The 24 1/2" ped with a 3/4 sub base is more than enough because the legs will add another inch to an inch and a half off the floor.
Also how sturdy are they They are pretty sturdy either just using the legs or adding a stretcher. and what is the best way to assemble them to the table? Thats all you get young grasshopper, Thoust musith commence with homework. Thou searchith button...hither to...yada yada yada. Once you have it in front of you (literally) you'll shit bricks. Its not hard.

Thanks.

Hope this helps. There are more uber builders out there that can kick the can if they are properly tickled.

[j p frog]

I like to build my own...so I won't be much help.

[Quads]

You will usually need to add the feet to the order, as there are several choices on the feet you can put to a ped.

Here is a step by step on a table I built some time back which has some insight on attaching the legs to the base of the table.

step by step on a few points of interest:
I started with the wood bases (maple) from Adams wood products
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz100.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz101.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz102.jpg

you have to get a little creative and put your thinking cap on when you get these and need to mount / attach them to the table base in some way.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz103.jpg

so i came up with the idea of building a base that would attach to the wood pedestal, and then attach to the table with t-nuts. so i cut this base out, (not pretty, but functional) and used a router to countersink where the nut and washer would come through.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz104.jpg

problem was the screws / studs that come out of the bases are a touch too long.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz105.jpg

nothing your disposable harbour freight angle grinder can't tackle!
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz106.jpg

t-nuts that will come through the bottom of the base, up to the support (was marked as scrap, but i figured a little extra support can't hurt anything.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz108.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz109.jpg

base, support stretcher, t-nut, etc.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz110.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz111.jpg

i decided to do a little different rail after a conversation with moddy about how the rail would look against the table, being that i used 1/2" foam for the play surface. so we kicked up the thickness of the rail to hide the stapled edge of the table where the suited cloth comes down to.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz112.jpg

foam on the rail
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz113.jpg

vinyl, stapled on the outside
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz114.jpg

trimmed
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz115.jpg

vinyl stapled on the inside
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz116.jpg

put it all together in the garage and it looks like this:
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz117.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz118.jpg

flush mounted drink holders
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz119.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz120.jpg

underside
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz121.jpg

here is where that thicker rail comes into play. from this view, you would see the stapled edge of the suited cloth.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz122.jpg

tables in their new home!
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz123.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz124.jpg

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz125.jpg

The resolution on some of these picks looks like ass. those are not wrinkles or jack up suited cloth. it is the picture which is washed out.

[a5mcdonald]

Thanks this helps out a lot.... I will use the scrap wood I have from the cutting the rail and attach the legs to that with the t-nuts

How do you attach the extra piece of wood to the actual table? Did you just guerilla glue it or something?

[Seven©]

so i came up with the idea of building a base that would attach to the wood pedestal, and then attach to the table with t-nuts. so i cut this base out, (not pretty, but functional) and used a router to countersink where the nut and washer would come through.
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz104.jpg

nothing your disposable harbour freight angle grinder can't tackle!
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz106.jpg



That's exactly what I did. Except I don't have an angle grinder. I just measured where I needed to cut the bolts to fit the countersunk top base and cut them with a hacksaw then smoothed the rough cut edges with a file.

[Quads]

Thanks this helps out a lot.... I will use the scrap wood I have from the cutting the rail and attach the legs to that with the t-nuts

How do you attach the extra piece of wood to the actual table? Did you just guerilla glue it or something?

Screws.
This gives you the ability to separate the two when you need to move them or something.

[a5mcdonald]

Screws.
This gives you the ability to separate the two when you need to move them or something.


errr, i dont see any screws that attach the actual table to the rectangle piece of wood that the pedestal legs are attached to

[KevSpyder]

I use T nuts and wing head bolts to attach mine to the table. That way you can unhook them. I don't buy the stretcher kind that Quads does. I just buy the 2 10" oak peds along with 4 feet and make my own stretcher from 2" wide oak from HD.

[Quads]

Screw from the bottom of the base, up to the bottom (underside) of the table.

[a5mcdonald]

underside
http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz121.jpg



the piece of wood that the pedestals are attached to is a large narrow rectangle

how is the rectangle attached to the table itself?

[Quads]

Screw from the bottom of the base, up to the bottom (underside) of the table.

[morningwood]

You can use T-nuts and screws as mentioned above (many swear by them). It depends on the job at hand and personal preference.

Not trying to step on Quads here. Having said that another option you could go with would be to use Insert nuts and connecting bolts. Its just my preference, I like to add a little more decorative feel under the table. A drawing of what it looks like:

The insert nut in the table base. I will add glue to them when screwing them in place. Haven't had one back out on me yet.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/tharshebe/base1-1.jpg

Then the connecting bolt securing the sub base.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/tharshebe/connect1.jpg

If you have any extra from the connecting bolt you can grind it flush.
The connecting bolts are more expensive but they have a couple different styles to chose from.

Oh almost forgot, for the insert nut make sure you get the screw in type and not the hammer in type.

[mattyrayb]

This is basically what I did on mine. There may be an easier way.

The gray bolts are from the pedestal. I ground down the remaining section of the bolts as necessary so they didn't obstruct.
Then I centered the base pieces on to the bottom of the table and screwed from top down with the screws (green). This basically made a table but not a finished table. Those screws were covered by the playing surface and the playing surface is attached by the decorative bolts (purple bolts). Not screws since 1) the decorative bolts are a cleaner look, and 2) there are so many times a screw can be taken in and out and don't want to risk taring up the wood.
Then rail is attached from underneath as well with the decorative bolts (blue).

Of course you have to predrill everything prior to putting on foam, vinyl, cloth, etc.

This is with a racetrack table, so like I said there may be other methods used.
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb277/waldorf_toby/poker%20table/diagram-1.jpg


http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb277/waldorf_toby/poker%20table/tablesmallerversion3.jpg

[Quads]

My only issue with that is there is no way to separate the base from the table top should you ever need to.

I later learned, and like the idea of using inserts or t-nuts through the ped-base, up to the table base. This of course needs to be done prior to the fabric and foam being put into place. (unless you do it the quick and dirty way from the underside, however you run the risk of pulling them out, versus having them countersunk on the top side.

[morningwood]

what ^^^ said

[j p frog]

if you check my spalted maple thread you can see how I address the joining of the pedestal and the table top.

[a5mcdonald]

could you link me to the thread?

[Karpro]

http://perfectmancave.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4462&highlight=spalted+maple

[Quads]

Search spalted maple, and this should get you started
http://perfectmancave.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4462&highlight=spalted+maple

[j p frog]

it is in this section and is labeled "spalted maple octagon"

[djack]

http://www.pcpotato.com/albums/poker/jayz104.jpg

What type of board/wood is this that Quads is using for the support placed on top of the pedestal?

[Guma]

Looks like a piece of pine shelving to me