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View Full Version : Cornhole Construction Process - lots o pics

Rewind
09-07-2008, 11:15 PM
I finally got around to getting my pictures in order so I can contribute some content. Here are my construction steps to build a cornhole set.

The playing surface is a 2' x 4' 1/2" thick plywood board. I used 2x3 boards for the supports as they would be just a bit lighter and wouldn't affect the stability. I have a full 2' running across the front and back and then the difference on the side (should be 45"). The hole is the standard 6" diameter hole.

Here is the first step after the cuts and all pieces are primed individually.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/01.jpg

One assembled box:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/02.jpg

I only have screwed 4 screws into the top and bottom support pieces at this point. I later added one screw to each side right in the middle.

I used a craftsman version of the RotoZip on a compas to make the circle cutout. I trust it much more than a jigsaw but it did take forever (I don't have a real good bit yet).

Now on to the hard part, the legs. I left the top of the leg square and was going to angle the bottom of each foot. I started with a piece which I purposly cut a bit too long so I could get an idea for the angle of the bottom of the foot. I measured how high I wanted it and drew my line:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/03.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/04.jpg

Generic wide shot:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/05.jpg

Getting ready to cut:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/06.jpg
15 degrees:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/07.jpg
Here we go:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/08.jpg

After the cut, I almost instantly realized that by making the cut, I would be lowering the back part of the box and thereby changing the angle of the bottom of the foot. OOPS.

So here the saw is reset to the proper angle of 13.5 degrees:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/10.jpg
Here is the difference between the two cuts:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/11.jpg
It's not much, but it is the difference between flat and not flat.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/12.jpg

Four legs ready to go:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/13.jpg
Reference pic:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/14.jpg

Legs holding board up:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/15.jpg

The next step is that in order to make the legs pivot, they need to be rounded (not perfectly, but the closer to round the better).
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/16.jpg
After the cuts, but before sanding down:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/17.jpg

I used one leg as a template to figure out where all the legs would go on the inside of each board. I used that leg to drill all the holes in all the other legs and each side of each box.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/18.jpg

I used 4" bolts (not sure on the thickness but they are fairly heavy duty. I also have a washer inbetween the box and the leg and another one between the leg and the nut.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/19.jpg

I added stoppers (made from shims) to the backs of the legs where they meet the box. This prevents them from going back too far and keeps the feet level on the ground. You might be able to skip this step if you round the tops perfectly, but this was a simple fix.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/20.jpg

Construction is done:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/21.jpg

Finished board:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/22.jpg

My helper (Harley, he's a Buckeye fan):
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/MrInquisition/cornhole/23.jpg

I still want to prime the legs before doing the finish paint job. Of course I will probably do an Ohio State theme, but haven't figured out all the details yet. Let me know if anyone has suggestions for improvements or if there are questions.
Quads
09-07-2008, 11:41 PM
+rep sent.
Nice step by step.
big0mike
09-08-2008, 10:15 AM
Let me know if anyone has suggestions for improvements or if there are questions.
The only "necessary" improvement I can think of is a cross member between the legs. It not only keeps them swinging in unison it provides a little more stability to the base since the legs can't wobble as much with it in place. My first set I made without it and the following three sets had a cross member and I can tell a difference in how they feel. It might not PLAY any different but it feels better.

I'm really anal and I hate seeing how things are put together. That is, I don't like seeing screw holes or nails. That's why I bought a Kreg Pocket Hole Kit. (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17193&filter=kreg) I assemble my frame (if I'm feeling really brave I'll miter the corners to 45 degrees so that there's no board ends exposed) and then drill the pocket holes. I think I put 2 on the short ends and 4 on the long ends. Laid it down on the top surface and marked where it should be. Pulled the frame off, laid a line of glue down, put that frame back on, and screwed it in with the pocket hole screws.

I also like to make my frame an inch smaller all the way around so that the play surface has a lip to it. I think it looks pretty slick that way.

But, the pocket hole and smaller frame ideas are all just aesthetics choices.

http://www.wideopenphotography.com/photos/cornhole_boards02.jpg

EDIT: I also like to put threaded inserts into the frame vs. drilling a hole all the way through with a bolt exposed on the outside. Another aesthetic choice. :)
Rewind
09-08-2008, 11:46 AM
Yea, I'm going to plastic wood over the screw heads and sand it down so you won't even see the screws.

I was thinking about a cross piece on the legs, I'll have to look into that.
JLew1415
09-08-2008, 12:01 PM
Nice-
You making the bags as well?
big0mike
09-08-2008, 12:03 PM
Nice-
You making the bags as well?
I've thought about that myself but since you can get them from many sources on ebay for $20-$25 shipped I can't see needing to learn another hobby: sewing :)
Rewind
09-08-2008, 01:03 PM
I did not do the bags, I bought them. I got Ohio State logo bags for $24 after taxes. I get 10% off at a local store becuase I work at Ohio State and buying locally I didn't have to pay for shipping.

Right now I'm debating painting the logo on the boards with either a stencil or trace a projected image VS buying a big sticker and tossing that on. I really want to go the paint route but the stencils I've seen suck balls. I could probably modify the stencils, but it would lock crisper if I borrowed a projector and trace the image.

A sticker would be clean and sharp, but then I think it looks like a sticker.
T
09-08-2008, 01:21 PM
Do yourself a favor and DO NOT poly the boards. They will be slicker that all hell and after a few beers, its hard enough to hit the board, you don't need them hitting a ramp and taking off like Evel Knevil.

T
Rewind
09-08-2008, 02:46 PM
Do yourself a favor and DO NOT poly the boards. They will be slicker that all hell and after a few beers, its hard enough to hit the board, you don't need them hitting a ramp and taking off like Evel Knevil.

T
I think I remeber reading this before and is another reason I want to avoid the sticker. The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards using a projector and tracing the image. I think it will take a while, but I'd rather have it look great than look "Ok".
big0mike
09-08-2008, 03:04 PM
So how are you going to "finish" the boards? Everything I read said a good semi-gloss paint is the preferred finish. It can't be much slicker than poly, can it?
j p frog
09-08-2008, 03:35 PM
So how are you going to "finish" the boards? Everything I read said a good semi-gloss paint is the preferred finish. It can't be much slicker than poly, can it?

I would think if you used poly and put some sand in it...that would stop the evil slides
wyatt880
09-09-2008, 10:21 AM
I used semi-gloss, and put a light coat of spray can poly on, just to protect the paint. There is not more slide than any other boards that I've played on.

I figured it was worth trying to protect the boards, as it took forever to paint the two Tigers on them.
big0mike
09-09-2008, 03:28 PM
Since we are on the subject I was in a bar this weekend and they had a fucking VIDEO game: Bean Bag Toss. Crazy...
T
09-09-2008, 09:33 PM
I would think if you used poly and put some sand in it...that would stop the evil slides

Sanding down the poly does slow the projectile launching of the bags, then as the game progresses, the bags tend to buff up the poly to the equivalent of a sheet of ice.

The paint I used on my boards was RustOleum, American Accents satin gloss paint. It was cheap, has a nice gloss to it and went on like a champ. To apply, I cut up some strips of left over rail foam, dip in the can and wiped it on. 2 coats and it dried pretty fast.

T