Oz
08-04-2008, 11:24 AM
Here's a play by play of the deck built after I finished building the house. The deck measures 36'4" wide by 12'6" deep (wifey wanted something to run the whole back of the house width). The backyard is small - with a hill at the back - not leaving much room for a deck and yard, so we decided to scratch the yard and just put in a deck and some landscaping (that way no grass to mow :D )
Before doing a project like this or any other - consult your local building agency / department and make sure you pull a permit. If you don't get a permit and something goes wrong - your insurance might not cover it. Better to be safe than sorry. It might cost you 50 bucks or so - well worth the added insurance!
Here's looking from the west side of the house towards the back. Shows the hill that I get to work against. The hill is about 14' from this corner of the house.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010391.jpg
This is looking east along the backside of the house. On the east end of the back of the house, the hill is about 22' away from house which was an ideal place to put a pond with a waterfall (another thread with that once I get pics).
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010392.jpg
Here's from the hill looking back towards the house - notice the double tiered rocks on the left.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010520.jpg
The first step was to outline the deck, which doing by yourself can be a bit tricky. I ran tape from each corner to square the deck off (very important) and braced in place once complete. The gray stuff underneath is a weed barrier - which was covered with basalt rock. Before I put the weed barrier down, I made sure to get my support columns in place (12" tube placed 3' deep) and had the 6"x6" brackets set into the wet concrete.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010524.jpg
Before I got carried away with all the stringers, I figured I should get the basalt rock in place, otherwise it would be a back breaking experience getting the rock in place one wheelbarrow at a time. Since I built this house (and the one next to it) I had connections for getting the rock in place (cost me $100 extra to have it shot in place)
This is also a great place to check out the construction layout. The ledger board (piece against the house) has 2 lag bolts in between each stringer (16" on center). The main supports off the concrete posts are 6"x6" columns, and the main stringer supports are 2"x12" which are notched into the 6"x6" supports. At the end of the deck are 2 - 2"x12" pieces nailed together for added strength (I didn't want to piece 12" nailing brackets where the 2 pieces came together in the middle, and I wanted some added security knowing it wouldn't fall apart). Also you will notice the ends of the support are not cut to fit - but rather cut after fit. I left it that way so I could double check square before the top was put on - and make any necessary adjustments to my support.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010555.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010554.jpg
Now that the gravel is in place, and I haven't broke my back, it's off to more work!
Here's a look at the underside showing my 2x12's that are used for my main support for the end of the deck. I doubled them up and notched out my 6x6 support columns for added strength. I used 8" lag bolts (along with some nails from my nail gun) for added security to keep the 2x12s in place and to keep them from sliding off the 6x6. That would not be good!
What the pic does not show is I had 2 lengths of 2"x6" boards. I used a 20' and a 18' on the top for each row. By doing this - I had 6" to 12" of overhang on each end staggered. I placed the boards 18' on the left, 20' on the right every other row, and 20' on the left and 18' on the right between. This helped to stagger the center joint so it didn't look all in one line. I don't know if it added any strength since the joints are zig zagging - but it's what I wanted.
After the top was in place, with everything being square and secured, I used my skill saw and a guide and cut off the excess ends of my top overhangs. Only problem is your skill saw will not cut the last piece against the house. There are a couple of different ways you can cut that off - mine probably wasn't the best - but it worked for me. I grabbed my sawz all and went to town - and I didn't hit my house siding!
I also started my decking top from the outside first and worked my way back to the house - that way if the last row needed to be ripped down to fit - it would be against the house and not at the end. Before I put the last piece down, I uses some Z channel against the house with silicon behind it to keep the water away from the house.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010570.jpg
Finally, the top was all done. I used redwood for my floor and rails (I got a great deal on it - it was the same price as pine, and cheaper than trex - which I will never do again). Remember I mentioned something about changing plans mid stream? If you notice the overhang of my decking, you will see a 1/4" gap. This was my plan, but not the wifeys. I "was" planning on using a 12" piece of lap siding to hide my sides and painting them (which I still think would have looked better). But my wife didn't want me to do that - and thought it would look just as good - or better - leaving it the way it was. So, my 1/4" overhang was not planned, and caused a little problem with my 4"x4" rail supports. Oh well, it turned out fine!
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010572.jpg
Once the floor was done and painted with a solid stain, it was time for the railing system to be put in place. I used 2"x2" pressure treated rails, 2"x6" pressure treated lumber for the top rail, and 2"x4" pressure treated lumber for the supports under the top rail and for the bottom rail. The 4"x4" main supports for my railing system were notched into the rail (we changed plan half way through which had me switch gears from our original idea) and held in place with liquid nails (keep the water out) and 7" lag bolts (there are 2 - 2"x12" making up the end of the deck).
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010575.jpg
And last but not least was the steps and landing. Nothing special - followed the same procedure as the deck and just did it.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010634.jpg
Final notes:
-Draw out your design before you start. This will save you from any problems during the process.
-Pour your concrete for your supports 2-3 days prior to starting your deck. This gives it plenty of time for the concrete to cure before you put a ton of weight on them.
-At the base of the tubes for concrete - dig it 4-6" deeper than you need and add some pee gravel as a base.
-Set up a jig for your miter saw for your railing - it saves time and everthing will be the same length!
-Drink lots while you are doing your project - but if you are going to have alcohol DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS!
-Take pictures along the way.
-Make sure you get a permit!
-Have fun!
And by having fun - I mean this:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010620.jpg
Before doing a project like this or any other - consult your local building agency / department and make sure you pull a permit. If you don't get a permit and something goes wrong - your insurance might not cover it. Better to be safe than sorry. It might cost you 50 bucks or so - well worth the added insurance!
Here's looking from the west side of the house towards the back. Shows the hill that I get to work against. The hill is about 14' from this corner of the house.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010391.jpg
This is looking east along the backside of the house. On the east end of the back of the house, the hill is about 22' away from house which was an ideal place to put a pond with a waterfall (another thread with that once I get pics).
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010392.jpg
Here's from the hill looking back towards the house - notice the double tiered rocks on the left.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010520.jpg
The first step was to outline the deck, which doing by yourself can be a bit tricky. I ran tape from each corner to square the deck off (very important) and braced in place once complete. The gray stuff underneath is a weed barrier - which was covered with basalt rock. Before I put the weed barrier down, I made sure to get my support columns in place (12" tube placed 3' deep) and had the 6"x6" brackets set into the wet concrete.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010524.jpg
Before I got carried away with all the stringers, I figured I should get the basalt rock in place, otherwise it would be a back breaking experience getting the rock in place one wheelbarrow at a time. Since I built this house (and the one next to it) I had connections for getting the rock in place (cost me $100 extra to have it shot in place)
This is also a great place to check out the construction layout. The ledger board (piece against the house) has 2 lag bolts in between each stringer (16" on center). The main supports off the concrete posts are 6"x6" columns, and the main stringer supports are 2"x12" which are notched into the 6"x6" supports. At the end of the deck are 2 - 2"x12" pieces nailed together for added strength (I didn't want to piece 12" nailing brackets where the 2 pieces came together in the middle, and I wanted some added security knowing it wouldn't fall apart). Also you will notice the ends of the support are not cut to fit - but rather cut after fit. I left it that way so I could double check square before the top was put on - and make any necessary adjustments to my support.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010555.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010554.jpg
Now that the gravel is in place, and I haven't broke my back, it's off to more work!
Here's a look at the underside showing my 2x12's that are used for my main support for the end of the deck. I doubled them up and notched out my 6x6 support columns for added strength. I used 8" lag bolts (along with some nails from my nail gun) for added security to keep the 2x12s in place and to keep them from sliding off the 6x6. That would not be good!
What the pic does not show is I had 2 lengths of 2"x6" boards. I used a 20' and a 18' on the top for each row. By doing this - I had 6" to 12" of overhang on each end staggered. I placed the boards 18' on the left, 20' on the right every other row, and 20' on the left and 18' on the right between. This helped to stagger the center joint so it didn't look all in one line. I don't know if it added any strength since the joints are zig zagging - but it's what I wanted.
After the top was in place, with everything being square and secured, I used my skill saw and a guide and cut off the excess ends of my top overhangs. Only problem is your skill saw will not cut the last piece against the house. There are a couple of different ways you can cut that off - mine probably wasn't the best - but it worked for me. I grabbed my sawz all and went to town - and I didn't hit my house siding!
I also started my decking top from the outside first and worked my way back to the house - that way if the last row needed to be ripped down to fit - it would be against the house and not at the end. Before I put the last piece down, I uses some Z channel against the house with silicon behind it to keep the water away from the house.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010570.jpg
Finally, the top was all done. I used redwood for my floor and rails (I got a great deal on it - it was the same price as pine, and cheaper than trex - which I will never do again). Remember I mentioned something about changing plans mid stream? If you notice the overhang of my decking, you will see a 1/4" gap. This was my plan, but not the wifeys. I "was" planning on using a 12" piece of lap siding to hide my sides and painting them (which I still think would have looked better). But my wife didn't want me to do that - and thought it would look just as good - or better - leaving it the way it was. So, my 1/4" overhang was not planned, and caused a little problem with my 4"x4" rail supports. Oh well, it turned out fine!
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010572.jpg
Once the floor was done and painted with a solid stain, it was time for the railing system to be put in place. I used 2"x2" pressure treated rails, 2"x6" pressure treated lumber for the top rail, and 2"x4" pressure treated lumber for the supports under the top rail and for the bottom rail. The 4"x4" main supports for my railing system were notched into the rail (we changed plan half way through which had me switch gears from our original idea) and held in place with liquid nails (keep the water out) and 7" lag bolts (there are 2 - 2"x12" making up the end of the deck).
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010575.jpg
And last but not least was the steps and landing. Nothing special - followed the same procedure as the deck and just did it.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010634.jpg
Final notes:
-Draw out your design before you start. This will save you from any problems during the process.
-Pour your concrete for your supports 2-3 days prior to starting your deck. This gives it plenty of time for the concrete to cure before you put a ton of weight on them.
-At the base of the tubes for concrete - dig it 4-6" deeper than you need and add some pee gravel as a base.
-Set up a jig for your miter saw for your railing - it saves time and everthing will be the same length!
-Drink lots while you are doing your project - but if you are going to have alcohol DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS!
-Take pictures along the way.
-Make sure you get a permit!
-Have fun!
And by having fun - I mean this:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/OzzmysterG/P1010620.jpg